Tonight we arrived in Auxerre, Burgundy. As I type this, the strains of a jazz combo performing on the Quai below are wafting up on a Summer’s evening. Luckily the windows are double glazed. The volume is perfect for enjoying if you are me! Auxerre is beautiful. Glorious on a summer’s evening. It’s tatty and historical and real and magical. It’s full of actual French people having actual summer holidays. (Also a lot of Germans and us.) People in caravans, people on hire boats, families with young children, people with dogs, young couples in love. There is a perfect full moon floating above the canal. Too much reflection from the…